Fira is the capital of Santorini, built in white cobblestone streets that cling to the caldera rim about 275 meters above its port. It is the island's hub, and public buses use it to reach the smaller towns. Its lanes are full of shops, tavernas, hotels and cafes.

A visit usually starts at the old port, with the cable car going up in about three minutes. Walk the shopping lanes, stop at a taverna or cafe, and look for the 3 Bells of Fira Church on the route toward Firostefani. The walk along the caldera to Oia is a longer day on its own.

• The steps from the old port are narrow in parts with low walls, so comfortable shoes are needed.
• Low season buses run less often and end early, so check the last bus before heading back down.
• Ferry service can be delayed or cancelled in bad weather, especially in winter.